Ota Sensei
was my wagashi instructor. His unique ability to create
works of art out of sugar and sweet beans has earned
him fame nation wide, as well as the ability to spend
many years traveling the world and learning about the
history and diversity of sweets. To celebrate the conclusion
of our semester together in Ritsumeikan's cultural exchange
program, Ota Sensei invited everyone in his class to
visit his home and participate in a private demonstration
of Sado, or traditional Japanese tea ceremony. It was
one of the most memorable experiences of my time as
a student in Japan.
As soon as our regular courses ended,
a few friends and I set out on bike for Karasuma Imadegawa
where we quickly boarded the subway to Ohara, a small
mountain suburb just outside of Kyoto. It wasn't long
before we found ourselves emerging from the typical
concrete dungeon subway station and into an expanse
of rolling hills, miles of greenery, and gorgeous nature
as far as the eye could see. Had we really traveled
that far? After spending half a year in cities composed
of wall-to-wall concrete, it's easy to forget that such
beauty still exists just a few minutes' trainride away.
We spent some time taking snapshots and waiting for
the local bus that would carry us the rest of the distance
to Ota Sensei's house.
Although the small winding road was
barely wide enough for a car, the pro Japanese bus driver
skillfully maneuvered his huge vehicle like it was nothing.
As the time flew by it became obvious how far we'd actually
come from civilization: on one side, wild monkeys watched
curiously from thickly forested hills as we zoomed by
with our camera flashes raging; on the other, wide-opened
rice fields and traditional sloping thatched-roof houses
uniquely identified our surroundings as Japan. By this
time everyone was already satisfied with the day, but
we all knew that the real experience had yet to begin.
Because we'd traveled so high into
the mountains, there were no longer any specific "bus
stops." We almost missed the red tarp draped over
a parked car that we were told would indicate we'd arrived
at our destination. But one of us managed to quickly
notify the driver and he pulled over to the side of
the road to let us out.
The instant we entered Sensei's property
of our jaws immediately dropped. In the foreground,
a traditional Japanese garden - bamboo fences, stone
lanterns, giant porcelain vases, raked stone paths,
all of the usual - was accompanied by a tremendous variety
of flowers, many of which I'd never seen before, and
a tree with leaves so fiery red that they were almost
difficult to look at. Occasionally a bright green frog
would hop out of the bushes and cross the stone path
in front of us. To the left and to the right were the
two main buildings - a traditional Japanese house, and
a guest house consisting of a single large tatami-matted
meeting room separated from the outside only by sliding
paper shoji doors. In the background, the faint sound
of a creek and chirping birds assured us that we actually
were far from the city and not in some small park constructed
only to create the illusion of nature. Finally, the
enormous tree-covered rolling hills in the distance
finished the task of completely isolating us in the
small world that immediately surrounded us.
Then came Ota sensei along with his
assistant, a woman fully clad in a kimono and woven
straw slippers. After a brief discussion in his meeting
room, the ceremony promptly began. First, the woman
in the kimono led us by candlelight through the garden
and to a small stone fountain where we were to wash
our hands, first left then right, and our faces. We
then continued to a tiny door, large enough only to
crawl through, into the raised tea room. We were instructed
to kneel in a circle on the tatami. Through another
small opening a faint candlelight enabled us to witness
an assistant in the next room preparing the tea.
This was perhaps the most amazing part
of the night. Just watching how incredibly refined every
single motion was, from how she poured the hot water
into the bowls to how she set down the ladle, was truly
astonishing. It sounds a bit odd to say, but I really
can understand now how it's possible to have such grace
and elegance at something as simple as pouring water
into a bowl and mixing it to a cup of tea. Even the
act of placing sweets on a serving tray took her nearly
five minutes to complete, a perfection of harmony that
would be destroyed in under five seconds once it was
served.
Likewise, after the small tray of food
was brought to us we were told about how everything,
from the way the tray was handed over, to the positioning
of the different foods on the tray, to the depth of
the bow, to the direction the host must turn when leaving
the guest, must be highly refined and performed flawlessly.
The guests too have a specific way that they must receive
each item, eat or drink it, and signal that they've
finished to the attendants waiting patiently outside
the sliding paper doors. The sound of the chopsticks
being placed back on the tray was the signal that the
snack had been finished and the tea should be brought
in.
He continued to tell us about the various
tools that had been used in the ceremony. The box that
the sweets were brought in, he told us, was over six
hundred years old, one of only two like it in the entire
world. The scoop for the tea itself cost over $10,000,
a very cheap product for a true tea ceremony. To me
it looked like nothing more than a single painted chopstick
with a slightly flattened end to pick up the bright
green powder. He said that a good quality scoop would
cost upwards of $60,000.
After the ceremony, we were escorted
back into the main meeting room to find that a feast
had been laid out for us on the huge wooden table. Out
of everything there, the only thing I was able to fully
recognize was edamame - but suffice to say that it was
quite a feast, and a wonderful way to wrap up the day.
We sat there for about an hour telling
stories and attempting to force cans of beer into our
already full bellies until the taxis arrived to take
us back down the mountain and into the heart of Kyoto.
Just one more unique experience to add to the list of
hundreds that made my year as a student in Japan one
of the most memorable years of my life.
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