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If you ever visit Japan, make sure
that you pay a visit to Koyasan. I went there this past
weekend and wow, what a weekend. I spent it on top of
a mountain in a historical buddhist holy land, at a
famous temple lodge with monks, and walked among graves
of some of the most famous buddhists in Japan.
This place man.this place. It was unbelievable.
To get there, you have to take a bus to Osaka, grab
a Starbucks (ok I threw that in, but it is helpful),
and then hop on the train. The train snakes up through
the mountain side, and if you are lucky enough to go
on a sunny fall day like I was, you will be amazed by
some of the views. After an hour or so on the train,
you transfer to a cable car that goes almost vertical
up to the tip of the mountain.
From there, a bus whisks you away
to wherever you should want to go in the village. My
first stop was Okunoin, a famous buddhist burial ground.
These graves, let me tell you...when I die, someone
better hook me up. You wouldn`t believe the elaborate
displays. Oh one really cute thing: a lot of the statues
were wearing knitted sweaters (I think to keep them
warm cuz it gets so cold at night!).
So you walk through this cobble-stone
path of dead buddhists with magnificent gaves, and then
you come to this area where it says `no photographing`.
And you know that means something wicked important is
going down here. So I walked up these stairs (I`ve found
that in Japan, stairs almost always lead to something
entirely more interesting). I entered this hall.the
lantern hall I think it`s called.and it was absolutely
haunting. There were thousands of lanterns, lining the
ceilings and the numerous walls, burning almost a red
colour. I read in my Lonely Planet that some of them
had been burning for 900 years!
So I sneaked a picture in and a monk
yelled at me, but it was worth it (I`ll have to be good
this week to equalize my bad karma though).
After all this, I went to check into
my temple lodge. I was greeted by this younger-looking
guy, with ears that stick out, which made him look like
the Japanese version of Will Smith, who showed me to
my room. Dinner was served not long after. It was incredible.
There were actually two tiers of it. All kinds of new
tastes (no meat or fish). Oh and sake. Or as they call
it, `enlightening water`.
Feeling rather enlightened from my
holy dinner and holy drink, I decided to take a walk.
This town is pretty quiet at night, but not really in
an eerie way (although I did stay away from the grave
yard). After a while, my feet started to hurt, so I
headed back to my lodge. I got back by 8pm, and I wasn`t
really sure what to do for the rest of the night. I
wanted to spend some time just thinking and sorting
stuff out in my head, but I was a little worried I might
go crazy!
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| I had been
lying on my bed, staring at the ceiling for nearly an
hour, when there was a knock at my door. In walks the
young man who showed me to my room, along with his friend.
They ask me what I was planning on doing tonight, and
I reply that I was just going to sit here and think,
and then go to bed. So they`re all, well that`s boring,
come to the pub with us.
So, when I was planning this weekend,
here is what I didn`t think was going to happen: I didn`t
think I would end up getting drunk with the son of the
owner of the lodge I was staying in (also future inheriter
of it), and his two friends who work there too. I didn`t
think I would be singing Good Charlotte songs with the
monks at the table next to us. I didn`t picture myself
sitting in their communal room, watching a giant-screened
plasma TV, listening to Beyonce on a wicked sound system,
and eating mochee. Those are things I didn`t think would
happen.
Um, but they did. And when I had to
wake up for morning service the next morning at 6am,
I was hating them for it. But I really enjoyed morning
service. Turns out one of the monks speaks a bit of
English, so he was talking to me afterwards. Then he
came to my room while I was eating breakfast (not nearly
as elaborate as dinner, but passable!), and asked me
for my e-mail address. I`m not really sure what for,
cuz I couldn`t really understand him, but I think it
had something to do with teaching him English. I was
like, sure why not. I mean, he`s a monk! That`s got
to score me some wicked karma points, right?
And after that weekend, I`m going to
need them. |